Brasserie Zedel is where the Atlantic bar and grill used to be, on Sherwood st in behind the flashing neons of Piccadilly. I only know that because somebody told me obviously, I wasn't a frequent visitor to the aforementioned Oliver Peyton celebrity hangout. It's downstairs a couple of flights, and looks like a cinema when you're walking in. You kind of keep asking yourself if you haven't come to the wrong place as you walk past big billboards advertising crooners with cheesy grins and cabaret artistes. You haven't though, and when you finally emerge into the cavernous restaurant, it's a real sight to behold.
It's all bright and sparkly, with art deco lights and high ceilings. The waiters look like they're actually accountants who are doing a bit of moonlighting at lunch, and there is a real sense of theatre to the place (almost literally).We got in there just after it opened and were the first ones in, and the very nice lady on the reception jump stuck us in a perfect spot for people watching. They keep a section of tables back for walk-ins, and it was to there where we were steered. She politely informed us that the table was "booked in 90 minutes time", and while I don't suppose for a second that it was, it did let us know quite clearly that this was a table turning operation where buggering about would be severely frowned upon.
No sooner had our bums hit the seats than one of the accountants was over with the menus. The first thing you notice is that it's all in French, the second thing which hits you is that it's very reasonable bordering on cheap. They do a two course set menu for about nine quid, while three courses can be done for twelve. We didn't go for that option, although what we had didn't come to too much more.
I went for the French onion soup which has always been a favourite. It was utterly brill, with meltingly tender onions and the little gruyere croutes on the side so you could lob them in as you saw fit (I must confess I couldn't really understand the DIY element). Sarah had spinach and cabbage soup, which was much nicer than it sounds. We also got some bread which was fresh French stick, with that lovely butter that you always get in such places which is never available anywhere else.
For mains it was Onglet steak all round. They give a knife which looks like it's just been lifted off the "Jagged Edge" poster, but you don't need it really as the meat is as tender as something that's pretty tender. The frites are great, and it all comes in this red wine gravy (I cannot type the word jus).
Desserts were a lemon tart for me which was lemony enough to make you pull a funny face, while Sarah had pears in port with almonds and cream. My dessert was better. Then it was coffees and a pinot des charantes, the bill off the accountant bloke (perfectly totted up obviously) and out well within time. There's a 12.5% service charge which is fair enough as you get served by about 73 people, and it's quite good, AND it only amounts to about a fiver anyway. The bill was about £57 and the whole experience was great.
If you're in the west end and want to go somewhere good, cheap and quick then go here. I have read one or two negative reports (amongst hundreds of positive ones) but I'm at a loss to think of a single bad point. It's cheaper than Cafe Rouge and about a squillion times better. Well done to all.
