Friday, 14 December 2012

The Glasshouse Kew, the @14Thefrog review.

I heard great things about the Glasshouse prior to our visit. Someone whose views I respect a lot told me it was "some of the best food currently on offer in London", so you can imagine how I felt as the black cab pulled up outside its glassy, housey frontage. We'd got in on a cancellation, and it was packed out when we arrived (I'd say about 50 covers at a guess) and buzzing away nicely. The clientelle was well heeled forty somethings in the main, and the restaurant clearly knows its market very well.

We got some water in (or someone else did, always seems a bit pointless to me) and perused the menu. It was quite reasonable given the promised quality, about forty five quid for a three course menu, or the taster menu at sixty quid or ninety five including a wine with each course (of which there were six I think). We decided to go for the taster menu as it contained most of the dishes our table of four were going to order anyway. Over the years I've found these menus have the added bonus of @NZSezGB not either nicking half of my food, or alternatively trying to stuff a bit of her wild mushroom ravioli into my mouth while I'm chewing on a sausage. The wine to match the food angle is always a winner too, so it was in for a penny in for a hundred quid and lets go the whole hog.

There are more waiters than you can shake a shiney shovel at here, and aside from one moment which I'll return to later and one young fella whose accent unwittingly made "you're welcome" sound remarkably like "you're a wanker" when he spoke to me, the service was good. There is a chance of course I'm doing the young fella with the accent a slight disservice here and he was more perceptive than I'm giving him credit for, in which case of course I take it back and commend him on his swift reading of human character.

We opened up with an amuse (their words not mine obviously) of cep and potato soup. This was dark, creamy and earthy. To be totally honest, I could have eaten a bucket full without any bother. Flippin lovely it was, and if you ever go it's on the main menu and you won't go far wrong at all ordering it. They kept bringing round bread and I kept taking it, the olive in particular is really good. I did consider dipping the bread in the soup (which is what I'd do at home) but not wanting to give the waiter with the accent any further encouragement, decided to leave well alone.

Next up was a smoked salmon terrine thing which was nice. I was disappointed that the horseradish blob which came with it didn't have more of a kick, but I suppose not everyone likes their nose to run while they're eating. The wine with this an Australian from Adelaide, and this was the only moment when the service fell down a bit. I asked the young lad who brought it out what the "story" was with the wine as I'd never heard of the grape variety (Fiano or something like that). He told me he'd ask the somellier, only to return with the bottle which he gave me to read the label off the back. Fair enough I guess but normally you get the wine gadgie over to tell you it's been filtered through nettle leaves and stored in Sicilian oak or something, off a grape that was originally grown in Sardinia. To be fair the somellier did come over for all the other wines and he was a smashing young bloke who knew his onions. Anyway the wine from Australia was good as I recall.

Next up we had the star of the show as far as the food was concerned. Kidneys (veal maybe?) with a little mustardy sauce, a bit of pastry and some tiny confit veggies (their description was better than mine but I'm going from memory here). This is/was a sensational dish, everyone at our table rated it number one in the tasting menu Olympics (you do these things after a few glasses of wine). This was top class cooking, perfect. I can't for the life of me remember what wine we had with this, but by now the wine bloke was in full flow and it all sounded and tasted good.

We had some cornish cod after this. A lovely little piece of fish with some sweet kind of sauce, some edamame beans and a bit of bok choy leaf about the size of a matchbox. The essence of this underrated vegetable is surely in the crunchy white bits though, and just giving you a bit of leaf seems about as pointless to me as deconstructing a brussel sprout. Overall however, this was a tasty little number. I'd have gone for a bigger lump of fish too, but that's probably just me. I think with this one we had some French wine.

The Duck breast next was lovely (I do like Duck). It came with fonadant potato and confit duck leg, but I wouldn't personally bother with the orangey stuff on top (candied orange zest maybe?). I found it overpowered it a bit, I'd have liked the dish without it on. The duck breast though was beautifully cooked it has to be said. With this we had some Portuguese red wine which I didn't like although I can't remember much more about it than that.

After that there was some sorbets which were good. My personal favourite was the blood orange one which was sharp enough to make you pull a funny face while you were eating it, and these were followed by a chocolatey thing which was very rich and lovely. There was a dessert wine (sparkley) which I didn't like at all (everyone else did it's just me) but the wine waiter very kindly gave me someting else when he noticed me not guzzling it. With the chocolate dessert we had a red Spanish wine which was kind of caramel like and absolutely fab.

The bill came to about £435 for four of us (the obligatory and soooo annoying to me 12.5% service charge nudging it up) and I wouldn't complain at it by any means. The food was mostly excellent, and at least very good, while,the service was nice too. They rang us a cab, got our coats, I said thanks to the guy with the accent and I'm almost certain he said "you're welcome" as I was leaving.



There was some great cooking in parts at the Glasshouse, and everything was of a high standard. I would say though that this market is a tough one. At these sort of prices you are into the Roganic kind of hitting zone, more expensive than the Lawn in Wimbledon village and up there with some of the west end places who have eye-watering rents to contend with. This restaurant is definately up in that sort of class and I'd go again. Among the best food in London though? Perhaps not last night, but given it's popularity it probably normally is. Go, it's good.

Friday, 5 October 2012

The Blue Elephant, the @14thefrog review.

Sometimes restaurants slightly miss the target, like a striker squirting it wide when one on one with the keeper they slightly bugger it up. This can amount to a dodgy bit of service, a cold bowl of soup or a chewy piece of steak, and as a punter we end up being slightly miffed but not overly suicidal about the whole experience as long as it's handled well. Maybe he'll find the onion bag next time we think, and besides he seems like a nice fella and he does try his best. Other times though, it's an open goal miss followed by the striker head butting the linesman and getting himself sent off. In these circumstances no amount of handwringing can make things right. Not only do you not want a "free" dessert, but quite frankly you'd rather stick wasps up your arse than even contemplate it.

Thankfully such experiences are rare, but we had one the other night. The Blue Elephant is over by Imperial wharf. It's a Thai restaurant that used to be in Fulham Road and it carries with it a reputation which is historically good but in recent years more of a "top-table 50% off" sort of place. It's nice when you go in, they've messed around with the awful modernistic frontage and interior of what is essentially a brick shell and made it look like a posh version of the log flume at Chessington world of adventures. The menu promises much too in terms of how expensive it is and how it reads. "Free range chicken green curry" reads beautifully, and at twenty three quid a pop (rice extra) must be pretty good you'd think wouldn't you?

Well, you'd be wrong. Similarly you'd be wrong to assume the "taster" menu would include freshly prepared dishes. You'd be wrong if you thought the mousse fois gras thing would be freshly put onto a spoon to be served and not left in the fridge beforehand to develop a congealed skin which made it resemble a camels left gonad (I'm guessing there but you get the picture). I'm going to hazard another guess that the camels left knacker would taste better too, but I have no intention of either proving or disproving the theory one way or the other. Also on the taster menu was some rice wrapped in a banana leaf (traditional style) which was thoroughly unpleasant, some crab which tasted like nothing I have ever tasted before nor want to again, and some soup (which to be fair was at least edible). There were four of us at the table, one lady had spring rolls to start which were pretty good, she had ribs for a main which was a surprising choice both for her and the menu and they were just about OK for flavour. I couldn't help reflect though that So chewy were they that I could give Bonnie the scary pub dog a couple to gnaw on you wouldn't hear a peep out of her for an hour or so. @NZSezGB had sweet potato dim sum which she said tasted like "congealed wallpaper paste". I had a taste and I'll take some convincing that wasn't exactly what it was. She also had beef in oyster sauce. It looked like someone had got a bit of sandwich steak and braised it for a few hours in gravy until it went grey. If only it had tasted as good as that, oh dear.

We did point out our problems to the manager and in fairness she was very nice. She offered us desserts, coffees or a free drink, and when we assured her that wasn't why we were bringing up the problems she did take everything off the menu that I'd mentioned during the conversation. Even then though the bill was 160 quid, which considering I had a bite of someones spring roll and a rib which I'm still trying to get out from between my teeth to this day, seemed a bit steep. Naturally there was a service charge on there as well, and I can only assume this must be for the nice young fella who assured me that he'd "told the chef, in order to ensure it never happens again" when I first pointed out that I was in severe danger of dying of food poisoning before the night was out. At least I could be assured that my death wasn't in vain, and that others would benefit from my imminent demise.
There seemed little for it but to go to the Ship and have a few beers. Life is too short to worry about strikers who miss open goals or get sent off, just as it's too short to worry about restaurants as bad as this one. Unless this was an extreme off night they'll surely go out of business very soon, and justice will be done. Don't go, if you fancy Thai go somewhere that does really good food, there's lots of places. This though isn't one of them, avoid at all costs.

Monday, 17 September 2012

The New York diaries part two-"The Halal Guys"

You could very easily go to New York and enjoy great food without ever setting foot inside a restaurant. On every street corner there are carts selling chicken over rice, lamb over rice, chilli dogs, cheese dogs, pretzels, kebabs, and god knows what else. I had a couple of dabbles at it, and on both occasions was knocked out by the quality oif what was on offer. Not to mention the ingenuity and staying power of the blokes stood behind the heat for hours on end, an incredible effort.

The chilli dogs are lovely (and at around $3 a pop great value too), but I resolved to give "The Halal Guys" a proper mention after I'd tasted their food. They apparantly started off with one cart, and now they have three, all around 6th and 52nd in Midtown, New York. I only know their history as I was tipped off by a cab driver who told me it was his current favourite fast food in the city, I didn't need a tip on the quality as there is a queue (or line as they call it there) 24/7.

Having lined up I explained to the gadgie on the serve that I had little idea what to order from his menu, and having looked at me like I was talking another language (I probably was in truth) he decided for me for that "a mix is best". I got a circular aluminium foil dish with loads of orangey rice, some salad (iceberg) with some grilled lamb doner style, along with some grilled chicken and a grilled pitta bread. On top of this he squirted some garlicky white sauce and a splodge of "the hot stuff". When I whacked a bit more of the rocket fuel on, I drew a "hey go easy on it man, it's hot!" from the seemingly slightly disgruntled "halal guy" himself. What he didn't know of course was that I really like hot food. What I didn't know was that he wasn't joking, it was absolutely blistering and I did overdo it a bit as it turned out. Ah well, not the first time or the last.

We sat down on the wall of a fountain and got stuck in. I can still taste it now, the lamb had a crunch to it not unlike the bits you get round the bone on a lamb cutlet, while the chicken had an unusual flavour that I couldn't put my finger but which was lovely. The pitta bread had gone all soft like it had been in a microwave (it was still absolutely delicious) and the rice was top notch in an orangey kind of way. I'll be honest here and make no apologies for saying it, I flippin love a kebab which is basically what this was, and it was wonderful. I kept meaning to go back, but was either outvoted by my fellow travellers, or dissuaded by the never ending lines at the Halal Guys cart.

One day I'm going to go to New York and live off street food for a week see if I don't. Until then, the least I can do is point you in the direction of these guys. Go easy on the hot sauce though, it'll burn your arse.

Friday, 14 September 2012

The New York Diaries-"Blue Smoke", the @14thefrog review..

If you love life, if you love food, go to New York. Plug into the energy, immerse yourself in the complexity and feel the pulse of this magnificent city. Wherever you go there are literally hundreds of opportunities to eat out, all of which could be reached with a frisbee throw (particularly if you've got one of those ones with the hollow middle).

But where to go, what to do, what to eat? This is the classic dilemma when you arrive in a brand new city. Nobody wants to get suckered into a Garfunkels or an Aberdeen steak house kind of mega-tourist experience, but neither does everyone want to unknowingly sample Korean pickled shark eyes while trying to get off the beaten track. So what you do is you look around for points of reference, you read books, blogs, articles and take advice, all in the name of trying to give yourself half a chance of finding the real taste of a city, the flavour of life within a new culture.

For my first trip to New York, I was accompanied by @NZSezGB (obviously), @McMoop and @Chaymondo, as well as another non-twitterer, Phil. We'd all done some research, and each got a pick of a restaurant. For my choice I decided to go with "Blue Smoke" in the Flat-iron district of the city. Why? Well firstly it's owned by Danny Meyer, the service and hospitality guru and author of the best-selling book on the subject, "setting the table". I've read Danny's book a couple of times, and it's the one of the most influencial narratives on modern service there is. Quite frankly, everyone who works in hospitality should read it, and I was keen to see the ideas and concepts in action. Secondly, I quite fancied trying some genuine BBQ grub, cooked in the pit old style, with Kansas city or Louisianna dressing. So here goes.........

Like most places in New York, it's not a dressy up kind of gaff at all. You could quite easily turn up in a Ralph Lauren polo shirt and shorts and you'd not be out of place in any way. If you're @Mcmoop, even your odd socks would only get a passing glance. All that's just as well at Blue Smoke, because when you first walk in there's a huge mirror on the facing wall (maybe 8ft by 6ft) which is smashed. It's not "arty" smashed and coloured in, nor is it "this mirror broke despite being 8 miles from the 9/11 attrocity" smashed (I know because I asked), it's just smashed. Shame, but there it is.

Anyway the much vaunted service. We got the "eyebrows but no smile" on arrival at the seater bloke, and were directed to the bar as we were a few minutes early. At the bar it was all fairly standard stuff, we got what we ordered with nothing added in and nothing taken out. We asked about a couple of different drinks, and like everything else upto this point we got our answers right enough but didn't by any stretch of the imagination have our socks charmed off. Once we got seated though, things did improve and our table server was a good fella. He knew his onions, and finally we got the feeling we were perhaps going to get an experience which came somewhere near matching what was now beginning to look like our unrealistic expectations.

The food was OK, bordering on quite good on occasions. Authentic BBQ though? Well I'm not so sure. Not only was there less smoke in the restaurant than in a working mans club when the racings on, but the kitchen doors were propped wide open and there was next to no smoke in there either. The flavour of the various offerings was no different or better if I'm honest to the "BBQ rack of ribs" you'd get in a good food pub in London. I so much wanted to love it too, I haven't looked forward to a meal as much in ages.

What did we have? Well I had chicken wings to start, and they were very similar but slightly better if I'm honest (which I am) to the ones we serve at the Alex in Wimbledon. They were massive too. Sarah (@NZSezGb) had some calamari which was pretty good as I recall, and the others had some other stuff. For mains, I had a kind of mixed grill thing with some pulled pork and some ribs, there were ribs on other plates and Sarah had some prawns. All of it was fine, not horrible by any stretch but not fantastically great either. For sides we had chips and cheese which is self explanatory, some onion ball thingies which were OK, and some collard greens which were a bit like a combo of curly kale and spring greens.

I think someone had a dessert before we made to leave (I had a beer), and then we asked for a recommendation for a good bar locally. Initially we were directed a bar apparantly called "Churchills" as we are mostly British I suppose, but after we indicated that that wasn't really the sort of thing we had in mind, the manager did come over and give us a better heads up.

All in all I wouldn't deliberately put anyone off going to Blue Smoke. If you like a decent pile of food with a BBQ sauce flavour, as well as a beer in a fairly relaxed atmos', you certainly won't go far wrong. Nothing you order will cause you to want to send it back, nobody in your party will leave hungry. If though you are looking for a bit or reality, a bit of the true flavour of the city or indeed the BBQ experience this restaurant seeks to import, I think you could do better. If you've read "setting the table" and think you are going to be swept off your feet by fantastic service, I would probably give this place the swerve as well. Better to take the lessons from the book and apply them to your own situation than to come to this place in the hope of seeing it all in practice. Like the food, the service is a long way away from being bad enough to either complain about or to write home about, it's on the good side of decent.

I didn't give up on Danny Meyer or his restaurants and philosophy after this one visit (we visited Union Square Cafe afterwards) but I did take a fresh look at what my aspirations were for his eateries. Perhaps that was the problem all along, expectations from my part simply set the bar to an unattainable level. Read the book anyway, it's fantastic. Go to Blue Smoke too if you fancy some BBQ, it's not memorable but you'll not go too far wrong.

Tuesday, 17 July 2012

Sticks 'n' sushi revisited

You never really get a true picture of a restaurant when you go in it's first few weeks of opening. Half the staff that greet you on those first few nights won't last the pace, half of the slick little touches all around the gaff will be long forgotten a few weeks in. Whereas once you marvelled at the real linen napkins and the Molten Brown soap in the toilets, often give it a couple of weeks and you'll have a crimbo serviette shoved in a half pint glass and a plunge bottle of Sainsburys "value" clementine & strawberry soap (if you're lucky in some cases). At first you have servers tripping over you, a raised eyebrow brings them running from all directions. Later of course, you can't find a bugger to get a beer off for love nor money.

Such is life (well such is my life anyway) so it was with a mixture of anticipation and trepidation that we went back to Sticks'n'Sushi at the weekend. The trepidation was because there's nothing worse than when a restaurant convinces you it's great, only to bitterly disappoint the second time around. I really hoped that wouldn't happen here, as much as anything else because I've praised it up so lavishly and sent so many people over there over the last couple of months.

I needn't have worried, all the favourable impressions that were made on our previous couple of visits were confirmed very quickly. The food remains lovely (and I've read one or two sniffy reviews which claim you can get better sushi elsewhere) and to that I can only answer not in Wimbledon you can't. Nor can you get a nicer and better run or slavishly clean place to take the family, and you certainly can't get a restaurant which has standards of service which are so impeccably high. These guys are really on it, and the only problem I can see for them going forward is how they are ever going to replace the utterly brilliant Danish people they have amongst their number. A few of the local staff are almost getting to the standards which they set, but this is a steep mountain to climb and I don't envy them the task.

Foodwise we had the usual kind of stuff, Ebby bites (don't ask, God knows), some Edamame beans of which I ate about 3lbs of (get the ones with the dressing on, can't remember what it's called) and all that kind of stuff. I got a chickeny board thingie with all these sticks and wings and stuff (so did my little lad Charlie) and my only criticism would be the pickled cabbagy gear on top of the rice (Kimshee or something like that) was a bit lively for him and it might be better putting it on the side. It didn't matter as I ate his anyway, but it's just a thought. All the stuff on the board was lovely, absolutely faultless. Sarah got this sushi thing which she assured me was gorgeous, while my little seven year old princess got a kiddies box thing which as it turned out was too big for her (get the small one if it's for a nipper would be my advice).

I should also mention we got this "green juice" stuff or was it yellow I don't know, anyway that was zingy and beautiful. Probably got some quite healthy ingredients in it too I shouldn't wonder. For afters, the kids had these ice cream scoops with a chocolate fish inside, I had this fruit cakey thingie with a blob of ice cream (top vanilla ice cream too). Sarah had a mini creme brulee and an esspresso which was just about the nicest cup of coffee I've ever tasted (I finished it off while she wasn't looking). I've heard people say it's a "bit pricey" but I've never felt that when I've been. Here, we had a beer each and had more food than we could finish, and it was around £100 or so with service included. I don't like service charge, but here the service is so good it's hard to complain really.

 I really like this restaurant, it's currently the favourite place to talk your parents into taking you if you're a kid at Bishop Gilpin  school, and you can see why. The kids aren't daft, Sticks'n'Sushi is flipping good.

Monday, 9 July 2012

The Lawn Bistro-The @14TheFrog review.

My first experience of anything "Lawn" was when one of the staff brought a load of scones (pronounced to rhyme with stone by the way) down from its sister "Lawn bakery" a few weeks back. They were fantastic, just as good as my nan used to make and we had them with real butter and that jam with the checkered lid and the French name. I gave some out to the punters in the pub and they were all over em like a coat of paint.

Clearly something was happening to the green buildings in Wimbledon village. Not only had Lydons been bought out and revamped (no more specials on a tray "we serve the fish on the bone, off the bone, grilled, fried or in  a butter sauce") but the old bright green bakery which was awful to be fair,  had been made over too. By all accounts the people involved had big reputations and something to prove, so it was with some anticipation that we booked up a table of three at "The Lawn Bistro".

We went during the Wimbledon fortnight, on the second Thursday and the place was predictably busy when we arrived. They recognised the booking which is always a good start (it always amazes me how many places don't) and we were seated in a nice comfy little spot down the middle. We didn't mess about as I was starving, and I ordered up some butter bean houmous with carrot sticks and some mini chorizos while the girls (@NZSezGB & @Chaymondo) dug into the wine list. The little nibbler/starter things arrived straight away, and were fantastic. The carrot sticks weren't poncily cut into the same size and shape, they were big chunks of veg while the dip was really top notch. The little chorizo thingies were lovely too, but stick the whole thing in your mouth at once or you'll do as I did and get it all over your shirt, little @14TheFrog tip there. For the wine we had this English one which @Chaymondo had visited the winery of recently. It was bloody lovely, smelled like Wimbledon Common when it's just finished raining and the nettles are wet.

For starters my wife Sarah had this goats curd salad dish which she loved, Angie had melon and ham (it was a posh version but essentially that's what it was) while I had garlic prawns. Mine came with a kind of tomatoey coriandery sauce and it was really tasty. I'd have whacked a bit of chilli in myself but maybe that's just me. After the starters we got a little taster of the chicken liver parfait which was an unexpected treat. I cannot praise this enough, it was absolutely sensational. @Chaymondo commented at the time that it was like an "orgasm on toast", and although I had to kind of take her word for it I must confess it was stupendously good.

On the mains, Sarah had Sea Bream fillet which was truly a wonderful piece of fish. Angie had a stuffed chicken dish with peas which I instantly wished I'd ordered in truth. I had a Lamb rump dish with couscous which was very good, it's just that I love that French chicken and peas in broth number. I must learn to read the menu properly. In truth I rarely do, merely flicking through it and invariably having little idea what I want when the waiter gives it the old "are we ready to order" and the eyebrows.

We had desserts, the best in my view was my chocolate and caramel tart thingy with creme fraiche ice cream. This was another orgasm by all accounts, this time on a board though and even I couldn't argue. Everyone else's desserts were lovely too although I must confess I can't remember what they were, by now we had had two bottles of the fabulous nettle smelling wine and were onto "pinot des charentes," which whatever it is was most agreeable.

All the servers were smashing, especially a Hungarian lad who looked and sounded as French as Jaques Cousteau and we had a great night all round. Service charge WAS included at 12.5% which is a bit of a gripe, but that said you could hardly grumble given the quality of it and the food. It's not very often these days (or indeed ever) that I've been near someone who has had multi orgasms, and any place which facilitates that has got to be a "must visit".There are now three new places in Wimbledon to be excited about. The Lawn is deservedly receiving rave reviews in the national press and is massively worth some visits. We love Sticks n Sushi too for the family, and the new Australian chef at The Fire Stables in the village is creating a bit of a splash with his traditional food too.

Once an oasis, Wimbledon is finally getting some places to be proud of.  The Lawn Bistro 100% deserves it's place at the forefront of those, we absolutely loved it. It's great, go, then go again. 

Wednesday, 21 March 2012

A book review-Last exit to Brooklyn by Hubert Selby jr.

I actually bought this book kind of by mistake. I was on one of those book bundle websites where you can buy 27 Alistair McClean books for £9.26, and I tapped "Irvine Welsh" into the search bit. Needless to say nothing happened ( I can never get the magnifying glass thing to do anything, must be me) so I highlighted it and pressed "enter" which is my usual method. Up came the usual suspects (not literally he didn't write that) but stuff like "Trainspotting", "Porno", "Glue" and the like, all of which I've read. There were also some lesser know works which I'd read too, and "Last Exit to Brooklyn" was at the bottom. I'd long since got bored of actually concentrating on what I was doing, so I clicked on "pay" and shelled out the £2.17 or whatever it was.

Anyway it turns out Irvine Welsh didn't write it at all, but a slightly strange bloke called Hubert Selby Jr did. Irvine Welsh is a bit of a fan by all accounts, and wrote an introduction about how the book was a modern masterpiece, had changed his life when he read it, how it will still be read in 100 years time and all that old bollocks. Not only that, but back when it was published in the late 60's the book was banned and was the subject of a court case, so controversial were its contents. Furry muff I thought, I like a bit of controversy so I gave it a bash to see what all the fuss was about.

First thing is, don't let your Mum or your kids stumble upon this one and start reading it. Don't leave it in the loo (or at least if you do put it somewhere high up). This really is an odd and at times disturbing piece of work from a man who clearly has a very vivid imagination and that's being charitable. There's a few stories kind of woven loosly together, all concerning a run down area of Brooklyn in the 50's. There's wife beating, prostitution, transexual relationships, a man who commits an unspeakably indecent act and lots more besides.

So is it any good, that's the question? Well, they say that it's art, that it was a snapshot of its time and Irvine Welsh says it influenced the way he writes. I can see the last point, because it has that same phonetic thumbprint that much of his stuff has, equally you don't get words in "speechmarks" when people are in conversation, there's more of a rhythm to the spoken word, a natural pace to it all. As for whether it's any good or not, and whether it's art or not, do me a favour. I personally read it and hoped there's be a point to it all somewhere before the end, somewhere beneath all the depravity and depression. I was disappointed though, there wasn't and it is bollocks. Disturbing bollocks, but bollocks all the same.

"Sticks n Sushi" the @14TheFrog review.

 May as well get a confession out of the way here, I'm not a big fan of sushi. Never have been to tell the truth, I just think it's an awful lot of fuss over something not that remarkable. Still, when an overseas restaurant chain (in this case from Copenhagen) decides to open it's first UK outlet in Wimbledon, the least you can do is give it a go.

 It's location is at the bottom of Wimbledon Hill Road which potentially ain't a bad spot (as I should know), but it IS hidden behind a busy little bus stop which means you've got to kind of know where you're going. You do get the odd disgruntled bus punter sitting on the window ledge outside while they wait for the promised but never arriving 93, and presumeably to counteract the distraction they keep the restaurant lights quite low.  Also and I don't know if this is deliberate or not, the signage is very understated and as a result of all this you could quite easily miss it if you don't know where you're going. Anyway, it's just up from Wagamamas if you're looking for directions.

 When you get in the door, they'll all shout something at you in unision. DON'T think they've mistaken you for a character from The Usual Suspects or that they think you are dealing drugs, it just sounds like "KaiserSose" or "Sensimillion" but in fact is neither. What it actually is, is comething completely unintelligable which means "welcome to my house" in Japanese (I know because I asked, which is what I suspect the whole thing is all about). It's good natured and harmless enough, but as neither you nor they are Japanese it does seem a tad odd, but maybe that's just me.

 The restaurant itself is beautifully fitted out, spacious but warm with clean lines and an interesting "brick" curtain which mirrors the real brick wall opposite. The menu has helpful photos of lots of different types of sushi, and lots of "sticks" which are little Teryaki thingies. You can buy them in made up platters, or you can make your own up. Drinks wise you can have a selection of beers and wines, plus soft drinks and "Yellow juice" which one of the kids had. This has got carrots in it and no doubt other healthy stuff, and is flippin lovely. They also do other coloured juice, probably green and red but don't quote me on it. I'd go for yellow anyway, the others simply can't be nicer than that. Also they have a kids section of the menu which is ideal. If you order a kids meal it comes in a little box with sections, and my kids thought it was utterly brilliant. One of my kids said "I think this is the best restaurant in the World Daddy", and while I think she might be over-stating it a fraction it certainly is very good.

 Both times I've been now I've had some edamame beans to start. They do a kind of plain salted version and one that has this dressing on. Naturally I'd advocate getting both as they are excellent, but the "with dressing" ones are absolutely out of this world. Quick tip-they give you a hot towel at the START of the meal, keep it because you'll need it as you go along. Both times I've been I've had a vegetable salad with tofu (and I never thought I'd say that) and that's fantastic too. I don't go a bundle on sushi as I've said, so I generally get three or four sticks and hoover up any leftovers on the sticky rice and fish department. The sticks are great, all of them (to be truthful I can't remember any particular ones, they're all good) and the sushi is nice too as sushi goes. They do these little things which look like prawns wrapped in rice crispies (I think they're called Ebby bites or something) which are brill, and shedloads of other stuff which I haven't tried yet. I cannot speak highly enough of the food, it really is absolutely superb.

 The service is great (we've been twice now and it's been top notch both times). Despite the fact that they roar Japanese greetings at anyone within earshot, the servers really are extremely nice and lovely people. They know the menu and are very helpful when you're ordering, plus they're smashing with the kids and are generally smiley and bubblicious.

 My kids loved the toilets (there's a slight twist which I won't spoil for you here) and insisted on dragging me in there to have a look. They also loved the kitchen, as one of the lovely waitresses (the one with the scarf on) offered to take them in and show them around. The waitress with the scarf was one of the one or two Danish staff which they have wisely sprinkled around in order presumeably to instill the culture of the place into the new staff. These people are stand out fantastic, and it'll be a challenge to replicate what they bring to the table should they head off back in the land of the vikings. Another challenge is going to be how well the restaurant will cope with the crowds which I have absolutely no doubts will flock to the place. How quickly they can spin tables, satisfy bookings etc is going to be pivotal.

 Through no fault of theirs there's also going to be the issue of kids too. Here, I'm going to come away from the review for a second and give the people of South West London a message....Take your kids to restaurants and pubs by all means, BUT IT'S NOT OK TO HAVE THEM RUNNING AROUND LIKE LUNATICS!!. There, someone had to say it but for heavens sake, lets let people do their jobs properly and let people eat their meals properly. Few things are more distacting than being asked "what are you doing?" while you've got a mouthful of food by someone else's six year old. We all think our kids are cool (and they are) but lets keep them sitting at OUR table (and these people do give you the obligatory colouring sheets and pencils to keep the ankle biters occupied). Anyway I've said it now, but come on public get it sorted.

 We had some desserts. The kids had a bowl of ice cream (beautiful ice cream too) wish a  chocolate fish in it, we had a cappucino cup with some souffle thing which was divine also. There is a 12.5% service charge (grrrrr) but I did ask the servers and they assure me that they DO get it. They are worth every penny, and I for one would have left a bit more.

 All in all, I couldn't recommend this restaurant highly enough, it is utterly fantastic. The food is tip top and the service is superb. Go, today.   


  

Monday, 12 March 2012

Pizzaro The @14TheFrog review.

We actually intended going to "Jose", which is the sister tapas and sherry bar to this Bermondsey St favourite, but they were jammed in like sardines when we got there so we gave it the swerve. "Pizzaro" is only 100 yards back up the road and although we hadn't booked (not even sure you can) you could at least get in the door without taking a run up, so in we went.
First impressions were good in that it was very buzzy, lots of dark wood everywhere and a nice young girl with a clipboard managing the queue. After leaving our names, we were told we'd be able to get a table for two in 45 minutes, so we headed for the throng at the bar. We must have looked a bit nonplussed by the wine-barrish look (we were to be honest) because the manager gave us the old "you're safe with me" look and flipped us a drinks menu in between a few heads infront of us. He was good this guy, having his finger well and truly on the pulse and he was matched the barman, who despite a dodgy haircut was extremely professional and buzzing around like a wasp in a jam jar.
We ordered a bottle of Alberino, declining said barmans offer of trying one which was twice as expensive (just in case we liked it), and it was superb. He offered us some olives or almonds, and needless to say we went for "all of the above" cheers. At this point a couple in front of us who were perched on two of the few barstools bang in front of the bar were called to their table, so I was in like a butchers dog and we had a prime spot.
From this observation post it was comfortable and easy to guage the buzz and the mechanics of the restaurant. The waiters were all professional, all Spanish and all out of the top drawer. The kitchen is open, so despite the fact that the chefs all look like blokes who used to man the waltzers down at the local fairground with their tats and earrings, they do make the effort to look cool, and they do.
The olives and almond were very tasty, especially the almonds, and the girl with the clipboard came over bang on the 45 minutes to steer us to a seat. I say seat rather than table because it was at a kind of window bench thingy, but as the vista is like a scene from "Notting Hill" (except with the occasional black person) we didn't mind one bit.
As for the food, well I opened the batting with the croquettes, while Sarah went for a big prawn on black rice. The croquettes were sensational and definately the high point of the whole meal. Little fried balls of fish and silky smooth potato, about the size of a Ferrero Rochet but infinately more satisfying. Sarahs prawn thing was also good, the rice (which she said had squid ink in it and who am I to argue?) was good too.
For mains I had braised pigs cheek in sherry with almonds, while Sarah had salt cod. The pigs cheek dish was very good, tasty chunks of meat which were meltingly tender. You got a lump of bread with it and I'm probably showing my philistine Britishness when I say I'd have liked a scoop of buttery mash to melt into the sauce (which was quite thin without it).
Sarah's salt cod was very tasty, the brining of the fish rendering it almost meat like in texture. To be totally honest I can't remember what it came with, which probably says more about me than it does about the food.
At this point (and having had two bottles of wine) I had to break the seal and toddled off to find the loo (there's only one cubicle, if you go yourself  DON'T wait until you're as desperate as I was). Sarah said she was going to order some sherry, and when I came back I pronounced it the most devine glass of sherry I'd ever tasted. Fortunately I didn't say it too loudly, so when I was informed it was actually dessert wine I wasn't too embarrassed by the whole faux pas. Whatever it was though it was sensational, as was the catalan brulee we had for dessert. This was kind of like its French cousin, but a bit looser and slightly more creamy it seemed to me. Superb anyway.
The service at our table was excellent, and the waiter was a smashing fella too. There was no service charge so full marks for that, and the bill came to £126 which considering we had over half that worth of wine, represented good value in my book.
We had a really good night at Pizzaro, and I'd definately go again. It's not easy to feel romantic to a couple who've been married for 15 years, but long before the end of the meal we were holding hands and feeling pretty lucky to be together (although having definately got the better end of the deal, I normally feel like that).
It's an easy place to get to, train into Waterloo then about a tenner in a cab. It's got a lovely atmos' for a night out with your wife and I'd recommend it to anyone. That said, judging by the queues at the two restaurants most people don't need a recommendation, they go anyway.

Friday, 10 February 2012

The Bayee Village-The@14TheFrog review.

We've been to the Bayee Village about 93 times, no really we have. When we used to run the Dog and Fox next door, we were on first names terms with all the blokes in the kitchen, or at least we would have been if any of them had the faintest idea what we were on about. Only a bloke called Chow could really speak English, but anyway we once invited them all to Christmas dinner with us and they came too. Lovely people they were (and no doubt still are). Even the little fella who set fire to his room once (they used to have a couple of rooms upstairs) can rest easy, I've forgiven him now. Many years ago I caught our pub dog at the time (Effie) running around with a live lobster in her mouth which she'd purloined from their as yet unpacked seafood delievery (I bunged it back in and said no more about it, OK I'm not proud of it but it was still alive for Gawds sake don't make me feel bad). I've got loads of stories, and it's fair to say our affinity with Marco and Peter is long standing, as it is with the restaurant which now sits on the old "Finch's" site.

Over the years little has changed with the Bayee. Yes these days there's a beardy man tinkling away on a Grand piano, you may even run into a dodgy Elvis impersonator from time to time (don't ask me why I've no idea), but as far as the food and the service is concerned, very little alters. Even the menu doesn't change much, and none of this is a criticism because nor should it. In short, the food is bloody good and you don't survive as long as these guys have if that isn't the case.

Last night we were a party of six which included Sarah's brother, the much vaunted (but completely anonymous in the UK) volleyball coach Hugh McCutcheon, as well as Kenny, one of the US team managers for the upcoming Olympics. These guys travel the World and eat in some pretty good places, but we were pretty confident that the Bayee wouldn't shame us or make us look clueless in the old nosebag department, so off we went.

For starters, we had all sorts of stuff. There was soft shell crab (which is flippin brilliant from here), some "short" ribs which my Dad claims to this day is the nicest thing he's ever eaten in his life, some pork dumplings, salt and pepper squid and all sorts of other stuff which I can't remember right now.

Then we had a "middle" course of the old duck with the pancakes and hoi sin sauce, the shredded cucumber and all that malarkey. To be honest, if I could only ever eat one thing from now on and this was it, naturally I'd be a bit gutted but for a couple of weeks I'd be well happy. You know the drill here, your supposed to nibble away but everyone dives in like loonies so that when the mains come you can barely eat any.

For mains we were doing that "here try some of this" routine which everyone seems to do in Chinese resataurants, and a combination of the many different flavours and probably one too many Chinese beers (chin sow, or something like that) means that I can't remember too much about it. It was great though, and I managed to spill a bit down the front of my best jumper I noticed this morning (always a good sign).

The service is always excellent, my only gripe being the "top the wine up" routine which does wind me up a fraction but never mind. They gave us a glass of bubbly on the old Mickey Mouse when we got there, as well as those bafflingly pointless fortune cookie things when we were leaving.

I'll be honest, we flippin loved it but then we always do. The Bayee may not be the coolest or the trendiest Chinese restaurant in London, but the food is as good as you're going to get. Pete who runs it is a great guy, and Marco who owns it is a lovely fella too. Go, I absolutely guarantee you'll enjoy it.

Friday, 3 February 2012

Amed Curry House, Wimbledon. The @14TheFrog review.

Amed is old school. No open kitchens, neatly stacked food or dishes which contain tamarind or galangal or any of that old nonsense. If Amed was a comedian it'd be Bernard Manning, it'd tell jokes about your mother in law and be mildly offensive to people who work in local government and/or have all the Levellers albums. You know what to expect the minute you walk in, and there's something quite reassuring about carpet with gaffa tape over the holes, the purple woodwork and the piped music which sounds a bit like the stuff off "It ain't half hot mum".

We arrived about 9ish on a Thursday night and it was about 2/3 full. I had two lady companions, not because I've gone or gangsa or pimpish in my old age, it was my wife and a good friend of ours. The two girls must have got swept up in the retro nostalgia because as I was busy ordering popadums and a bottle of Kingfisher, they ordered a bottle of Matteus Rose (I didn't even realise they still made it).
On the question of popadums Ajmed is in the "how many would you like?" bracket, whereas some places these days just give you one each. I was a bit stumped and order four between three of us without really knowing why, and when they came they were good. It's all about the chutneys and pickles really though, and the lime pickle was searingly hot and excellent. There were a couple of others which were a bit out there, one of which looked and tasted so much like tomato ketchup that I'd have to say that using the duck theory, probably was tomato ketchup. Indian people quite possibly eat lots of the stuff for all I know, but it was a bit out there all the same.

For proper starter I had a mixed grill thing, (for 2). It had chicken tickka on it, some lamb kebab things and something else which I can't for the life of me remember right now. It was probably actually about enough for one and a half, but I can see their dilemma in that it would read a bit strange on the menu if described too literally. It also had that sweet yellow minty sauce which you get in all Indian restaurants of this ilk, and it was good. Needless to say I wolfed the lot, save for a couple of "ooh lets have a bit of that" from the two girls.

Main was a chicken madras, boiled rice and naan bread. I got exactly what I expected, even down to the waiter bloke polishing the plate before he put it on the table which they always seem to do in places like this. He brought the food over on a little trolley, and he put all the dishes on these little steel table stand things. You always imagine they'll be searingly hot which would give the whole ritual a point, but of course they never are. Still, he seemed to be pretty happy to go through the whole rigmarole, so fair play to him and no harm done.

Anyway it was bloody good, I was full as a gun long before I'd actually stopped eating, and left there very happy with life (and dying to fart as well to tell the truth, but this is more a comment on my gastric situation than in any way reflective of the food). They didn't bother offering us desserts which is just as well (Kulfi is something everyone should experience but only once), and all in all the service had that weary professionalism of fellas who knew they were giving you what you wanted without poncing around where it wasn't needed. If these blokes were barbers, they wouldn't waste their time asking you where you were going on holiday, they'd just give you a good haircut.

The bill was about 70 quid, which considering the two girls had two bottles of the wine with the rope round the neck is very reasonable. Amed is a good old fashioned curry house, go and wollow in it. You won't be disappointed. 

Monday, 2 January 2012

The @14thefrog 5 minute noodle recipe.

I eat this a fair bit when I'm in rehab from a big night on the Tom Cruise the night before and it does the trick. It's not fancy, but if you feel that way inclined you can make it look quite flash.

You will need:

A wok.
Some veggies.
Some prawns (if you are posh, but they're not essential).
Some noodles  (fresh if you are posh, but "super noodles" or something similar work perfectly well).
Some soy sauce.
Some lemon juice (optional)
Some sweet chilli sauce (optional)
Some chilli and coriander.

Method:

 Depending whether you want "soup noodles" or want "noodles with sauce", bung some water in the wok and bring it to the boil. If you discover you haven't got enough water half way through, put some more in (very technical isn't it).

 While the water is boiling, chop your veggies (asparagus/broccoli/mushrooms/French beans/caulifower or whatever else you've got) into little pieces. Obviously stuff like cauliflower needs to be quite small or it won't cook.

 Once the water is just about boiling, chuck your noodles in along with either a stock cube or the little sachet you get in the packet. throw all the veggies on top and kind of let them sit in the steam. Bung your prawns on top of that, a glug or two of sweet chilli sauce and a squeeze of lemon if you've got any. Stir it all up, glug in some soy sauce to taste, and lob in a good handful of coriander. It's all be steaming hot at this point, so stick a cupful of frozen peas in for 30 seconds or so. Stir it all up and ladle it into bowls. I always bung some chopped up chillis on the top, but you don't have to if you don't want.

 It tastes really good and takes about 5 minutes. It's probably quite healthy too, give it a bash.