I once worked in the Orange Tree, about 16 years ago. Me and Sarah were trainee managers then, and they used to get all the trainees together on rugby days to give them a bit of "character building" by letting them experience a properly busy pub. I'm not sure it overly contributed to the construction of my character such as it is, but it was a fun day anyway and unbelieveably busy. England v Ireland it was, and my first order was "19 pints of Guinness" to a fella with ginger hair and a tweed jacket on.
Most people who live in South West London would have an Orange Tree story. "Iconic" is an overused word when it comes to pubs, but for some it is appropriate and the Orange Tree is one. It's famous for its rugby days, just like The Dog and Fox is famous for the tennis fortnight, and I suppose whatever happens that will always be the case. All that said, there's only only one tennis fortnight a year just like there's only so many rugby matches, and both of these great pubs deserve to be taken seriously for the whole of the 52 weeks.
The Orange tree has at its helm these days one of the best operators in the in the industry in Oisin Rogers, "Osh" to his normal mates, "Ohsh" to his posher ones. He also runs the famous (and iconic) Ship in Wandsworth, and is bringing a large amount of his award winning expertese and know-how to bear on the Orange Tree. The result is a revamp of the pub area which has given the place a completely new look. Gone is the dark and dingy "stain resistant" rear area with easily removeable furniture, and in is a light and airy new feel. Still traditional in its way, but more homely and appealling, more of a contempory dining area.
The menu comes up hand written on an A3 (I think) piece of paper. It contains all the old pub classics, but in sharer/tapas sizes as well as the normal plate-buster options. The prices range from about a fiver to around a tenner. I tried the signature (and very good) warm scotch eggs, the fish and chips in crispy batter, burgers homemade with a pink middle and lovely flavour, a chicken burger which looked a bit like a KFC fillet burger with its homemade crispy coating, a really unctious macaroni cheese and a really clever "Atkins" dish of steak and eggs. The chips (home-made and top notch) come in these really cute little baskets with greaseproof paper in. Everything was really top quality, my personal favourite being the macaroni cheese. My only criticism would be I'd like a big hunk of crusty bread on the side, but maybe that's just me. It was really top quality pub food for which I'd be prepared to go out of my way for. Generally, it all looks like it's pitched about right to me. There are loads of poncey restaurants in the immediate vicinity if you fancy that sort of thing, so the Orange Tree has got smart and given itself a real point of difference with it's homely menu which is keenly priced.
I ought to really add a couple of points here in the interests of fairness. I should declare an interest that The Orange Tree is owned by the same umbrella company which the Alexandra (our pub) is owned by. Equally, it is only fair to point out that Osh is a mate and therefore I would find it difficult to be highly critical. That said if it was crap I wouldn't review it, pure and simple. If it was average I'd say so (I think our scotch egg is better for instance). It isn't crap though, it isn't average either, it's really good and if you go I've no doubts at all you'll agree.
As a footnote to the footnote anyone who says ginger haired people aren't attractive should meet Jo who runs the gaff (I think). She's very lovely, smiley and uber-efficient, staff traits which are typical of this particular operator. Osh is going to do the basement area up next, and it's long overdue. When it's done I'm going to go back, it's worth it just for the macaroni cheese and to get the smile from the staff. I'll tell 'em I'm coming so they can get some crusty bread in.
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