If you'd never been in a Youngs pub before and somebody offered you a big wad of cash if you could guess which was the busiest, you'd probably begin your search in Richmond at the White Cross. You'd see the riverside gardens crammed all Summer and you'd be congratulating yourself on how easy the task was, probably already spending the dosh you had coming. If though you got a whisper that you were slightly wide of the mark, perhaps you'd head to the iconic Dog and Fox in Wimbledon village, maybe even to the Founders on the south bank. You'd be wrong again however and if you didn't know, my guess is all the head scratching in the world wouldn't lead you to the right answer.
The truth is of course that although all of the aformentioned are massively busy and fantastic pubs in their own right, none of them can claim the title of the busiest. I'd forgive you for not guessing it by location and situation, but that mantle belongs indisputeably to the Ship at Wandsworth. You'd never have picked it, tucked away as it is behind a bus garage and beside a cement works, but nontheless it remains a fact.
The last time we went (about 18 months ago) it was on a Friday lunchtime. I remember it very well because we sat in the restaurant and I had the best fish and chips I'd ever had, except for the Magpie cafe in Whitby (and those of you who've been there will know it's high praise to be mentioned in the same breath) . The batter was crisp and flavoursome, the chips top notch, the fish snowy fresh and even the minted pea puree (not a favourite of mine) was pretty good. All in all that first visit made a huge impression, and we were always keen to return.
The head chef at that time was David Faunch (now at the Devonshire in Chiswick), and it was going to be interesting this time to see how things were under the stewardship of new head man, Shaun Harrington. We arrived in the bar about 8pm on a Saturday night in November, and it was absolutely banged out. The clientelle was lots of young (well younger than me anyway) professional types, lots of light blue oxford shirts with the collars turned up and blokes in rugby shirts or rowing tops. Very pleasant bunch infact, lots of wine, very female friendly and overall exactly like the sort of place I'd want to go. We got served quickly and the service had all the hallmarks of the management team here, happy, smiley and uber efficient. The bitter was lovely (quite important that) and we made our way through to the restaurant. Good job we'd booked, because that was cakeoed too, and we got stuck into studying the menu.
The menu itself was short, but only in the sense that it wasn't filled up with dishes that you just know for a fact that nobody ever orders. All of the stuff on there was potentially a seller, and although the fish and chips wasn't there I was more than tempted by a nice bit of rib-eye or the pork belly for which the pub is famous. For starters I had lamb rump which was superb, my Dad had a tomato soup which he said was "bloody incredible", my mum had a provencal tart which she said was "nice" (she's difficult) and Sarah had a red mullet (I think) escabeche which was lovely. My brother had a fois gras thing which was beautful. As usual I stuffed my face with the fresh bread which kept coming, and I must also say the service was absolutely top notch.
For mains I went for a rare rib-eye, and though it was lovely I should have gone for the belly pork (as I absolutely implore you to do if you go). My bother had that, and it was spectacular. He offered me a taste, and I made sure I got a few chips into him to fill him up so I got about the last 1/3 of his pork as he ran out of steam. Sarah had a seabass dish which was superb, Mum and Dad had steaks and all round the food was fab, really excellent. We did get a dessert menu, but just couldn't fit any in. We had some coffees, paid the bill and came home.
The only thing I can possibly find fault with is that I belatedly realised that the fish and chips was actually available all along. It was on a big blackboard (or redboard in this case) but as I had my back to it and it was on the opposite wall, I didn't see it. Somebody on an adjacent table did, and from the look of theirs I can safely say it hasn't changed much. I would probably have gone for it just for old times sake, but to be honest even though I now know about it I'm still going to go for the belly pork next time I go.
You should too. Do yourself a big favour and go to the Ship, pubs don't get busy and famous by accident and this one is no exception. The Ship is right at the very top end of food pubs (and indeed drinking pubs). It fully deserves its place alongside the likes of the Angelsey, the Devonshire, the Lass O Richmond Hill and the Hampshire Hog. We are lucky in South West London to have such fantastic operations within easy reach, forget your brasseries and your bistros and use these pubs, they are better.
IMPORTANT-In the interests of fairness it is only right and proper that I point out that The Ship is owned by the same umbrella pub company as my pub, The Alexandra. Equally, the industry renowned and award winning management team at The Ship I am happy to count as friends. They are Oisin Rogers (General manager @Mcmoop), Phil White (restaurant manager @Philwhite101) & John the pub manager (@Johnny_rocket). That said, that isn't why I've given it a glowing review. The reason for that is that it's flippin' superb.
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